Escargot

The Greek gift for having a word for everything applies richly to snails, usually called "salingaria" on the mainland, but "hohli" on Crete and "karaoli" on Cyprus. Hohli are a favorite Cretan food, and the delicious cooking methods explain why. Snails are scrupulously avoided except in summer, when they are considered safe to eat (well that's encouraging!). Since snails absorb the odors and taste of foods on which they feed, Cretans catch them after a rainfall, put them in a covered container, and feed them for several days on wheat, flour, and perhaps some thyme. Then the real fun begins. The amounts of the other ingredients in this recipe are based on a pound of snails. One pound of snails serves 1 or 2.

First be sure all the snails are alive, then wash them thoroughly in cold water and place their shells in a container large enough to hold them (good idea). Pour hot water over them, cover and bring to a boil. Add a teaspoon of salt for each quart of water and continue to boil for 20 minutes, skimming off foam. Drain the snails, then wash in cold water and drain again. In a deep, heavy pan, heat olive oil almost to the boiling point, using 1/2 cup olive oil per pound of snails. Add the snails and fry for 10 minutes, turning carefully with tongs to avoid spattering oil (and to avoid direct contact with the little buggers). Pour in 1/4 cup red wine vinegar for each pound of snails. Remove from heat and stir constantly for a few minutes. Remove the snails to individual plates and serve hot with a little of the remaining
sauce, and some bread and wine, as an appetizer or first course.

Contributed by Joe Murtha

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